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Monday, 01 June 2009

麺処Ryu-ya@日吉

Ry2吉に本日オープンした新店が「麺処Ryu-ya」です。日吉といえばこの界隈では屈指の激戦エリアで、大学生を中心に昼夜を問わず人が集う場所でもありますが、意外にも純然たる豚骨魚介のラーメンはあまりないようで、こちらではそのコンセプトのラーメンとつけ麺を提供するとのこと。場所は日吉駅西口から放射状に伸びる商店街の右手、浜銀通りを入って少し歩いた右側にあります。手前に宝くじ売り場があるのですぐ分かるでしょう。

 店は黒を基調にしたファサードがお洒落に仕上がっていますが、横文字を使った店名や看板の割に壁には中国語が書かれていてちょっとミスマッチ。聞けば中国の麺料理が日本に伝わって来たプロセスなどが書かれているそうなのですが、この中国語が書かれていることで店のイメージが決まってしまいそうで少々危険な気もします。これだと炒飯、餃子、中華丼が出て来てもおかしくなさそうですから。しかしこちらにはそういう中華料理店的なメニューは一切ありません。基本は「中華そば」(680円)「つけ麺」(700円)に、あとはちょっと二郎ライクな「野菜大盛そば」(780円)という3種とそのバリエーションで、麺に関しては「中華そば」「野菜大盛そば」には大盛があり、20円プラスで頼めます。またつけ麺の方は普通盛りが200gですが、大盛は300gで20円プラスになります。さらにつけ麺のみ特盛400g(+100円)と特大盛500g(+200円)が用意されています。

 店内は少々薄暗い照明になっていて、ちょっとお洒落な雰囲気。L字型カウンターの他テーブル席も2卓ほど配されています。まずは基本の「中華そば(写真上)」(680円)を。ベースのスープはゲンコツと豚頭で取った豚骨スープに、鶏ガラ、モミジに背ガラを加えた別の白湯スープで追いかけて足して回していくスタイル。そこに後からサバ節や煮干しなどが加わってきます。適度に粘度、濃度もあって骨の旨味を感じさせるスープは、昨今流行のどろざら系豚骨魚介とは異なり、ちゃんと豚骨や鶏の旨味を感じさせたいという姿勢が感じられます。そこに千葉の老舗醤油蔵「宮醤油」を使った醤油ダレが合わせられるのですが、スープの旨味を出したいからなのか少々おとなしめの配合です。僕的にはこのバランスは悪くないと思うのですが、果たして昨今の味の強いバランスに慣れている学生達に伝わるのかは疑問です。麺は菅野製麺所に特注した太麺で、適度な弾力と食感が心地よい麺です。ただ個人的にはもう少し麺線が細い方が良いのかなとも思いました。

 具は若干スモーキーに仕上げた肩ロースチャーシューに、メンマ、水菜、海苔、白ネギですが、どこかのお店よろしく卓上には刻みタマネギが置かれていますので、それは好みで入れることが出来ます。個人的に刻みタマネギ大好き人間ですので、これはもうどこの真似であろうと大歓迎です。また同様に卓上には魚粉やカレー粉、唐辛子などの調味料も置かれていて、自分好みの味を作ることが出来るのは楽しいと思います。しかし実際のところ最初のバランスがかなり計算されているので、ひとたびカレー粉でも入れようものなら全く別ものになってしまいますが。それでも後半で違った味にするというオプションは受けそうですし面白いのではないかと思います。

Ry3 そしてもう一つの看板メニューである「つけ麺(写真)」(700円)をいただきましたが、個人的にはラーメンよりもこちらの方が非常に興味深い一品でした。というのも麺の食感が実に良いのです。麺はラーメンと同じ生地のものを切り刃と切り方を変えたものだそうですが、同じ生地とは思えない食感を生み出しています。もっちりとしていて柔らかく、芯がなくしっかりと熱が加えられている。それでいてぶかぶかしていない食感。最近のつけ麺はやたら硬い食感のものが多く、おそらくこの麺も他の店ならあと30秒は早く上げて来るでしょう。しかしそこを堪えてしっかりと茹でてていねいに締めてあるこの麺は相当いいと思います。しかしこれも中華そばのスープと同様ですが、果たして最近の硬い麺に慣れている人が食べてどう思うかがポイントです。茹で過ぎであるとか、柔らか過ぎるなどと言われる可能性も多分にあると思います。つけダレはそこそこ濃度のあるスープに程よい甘味、酸味、辛味という、味こそ違えどもいわゆる東池袋大勝軒系や鳥居式的な方向性を向いており、そういう意味では些か凡庸ではありますが、この麺の食感、風味がそれをカバーしています。

 実はこの店は僕がプロデュースしているラーメン店「千葉ラーメン拉通ra2」を一緒にやっている川崎君が、立ち上げ段階で味作りなどのお手伝いをしたお店です。彼は以前日吉で「マンモスラーメンポクポクポクチン!!!」というラーメン店を任されていたこともあり、その時の知人に頼まれて一肌脱いだのです。拉通ともポクチンとも違った、こういうラーメンなどをしっかりとまとめてくるところに彼の引き出しの多さを感じます。だからこそ彼と組んでいて非常に楽しいのですが。

 そういう意味では商品力としてはもちろん十分力はあると思います。しかし商品力があっても売れるとは限らない。特にこのつけ麺は他にはない味わいで大変美味しく、そしてハイレベルだとは思いますが、それがマジョリティであるかと言えば明らかにそうではありません。現段階でのこの店の目指す味なりスタイルは、既存の豚骨魚介系への挑戦でありアンチテーゼというか一つの提案ではないかと思うのです。それが果たしてこの日吉という地で、今の流行である濃厚豚骨魚介系のつけ麺専門店が圧倒的な支持を受けているこの町で受け入れられるのかどうか。そこを注目したいと思います。

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Ry1ラーメン:麺処Ryu-ya
神奈川県横浜市港北区日吉2-2-5
045-564-1598
11:00〜23:00 ※スープ切れにて終了
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