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Sunday, 05 April 2009

The Fujiya@宮ノ下

Fujiya04泉が大好きでよく出掛けますが、生まれてからずっと関東住まいの僕としては、やはり馴染みのある温泉地と言えばやはり箱根ということになります。父親も箱根が好きだったということもあり、赤ん坊の頃から我が家では年に何度も箱根へ旅行に来ていました。さすがに物心ついた幼稚園くらいからの記憶しかありませんが、新宿でロマンスカーを待つドキドキ感。そしてロマンスカーの特等席、最前列に座れた時の安心感。小田原を過ぎて徐々に箱根が近づき、箱根湯本駅で箱根登山鉄道に乗り換えるあたりで箱根に来たなと実感してきます。そして小さくてかわいらしい登山鉄道に乗り込むと、高揚感はさらに高まります。写真などでも有名な出山の鉄橋を過ぎ、大平台でのスイッチバックは最初は不思議で仕方がありませんでした。小学生の頃から一眼レフを持つようになった僕は、周りの皆が東京駅や上野駅でブルートレインを撮影していた時に箱根の山で登山鉄道を撮っていました。その頃から少々天邪鬼でレトロなものに興味がある子供だったようです。そんな思い出がいっぱいある温泉が箱根なのです。

 さて、箱根温泉と一言で言っても箱根にはたくさんの温泉郷が並んでいます。それこそ箱根湯本から終点の強羅まで登山鉄道の各駅ごとに温泉がありますが、その中でも一番馴染みがあって幼い頃から現在まで通い詰めている温泉郷が「宮ノ下温泉」です。江戸時代から箱根七湯の一つとして知られた宮ノ下温泉は、今からおよそ130年前の明治11年に開業した「富士屋ホテル」の登場から、湯治場としての温泉町からリゾート地へと姿を変えていきました。ジョンレノン、オノヨーコ夫妻、チャールズ・チャップリン、ヘレンケラーなどの著名人を始め、明治から昭和にかけて多くの外国人観光客がこの小さな温泉町に集まりました。どことなく他の温泉郷と違う雰囲気を醸し出しているのは、古くから国際リゾートとして積み重ねられてきたその歴史によるものでしょう。

 僕はこの宮ノ下温泉の中でも二大ホテルと言われた「富士屋ホテル」と「奈良屋旅館」が大好きでした。中でも「奈良屋」は山路家の常宿として年に何度も泊まっていた宿で、大人になってからも何度となく足を運んでいたものです。創業は1700年代初頭と、富士屋ホテルよりも遥かに古い歴史を持ち、箱根を代表する老舗旅館でありましたが、2001年に惜しまれつつ、本当に惜しまれつつその営業を終えてしまいました。諸行無常とは分かっていても、その時の僕の中での衝撃はものすごく、今でも悔しさや寂しさが募ります。それほど僕にとっては思い出深く、大切な場所だったのです。現在その場所には新たな施設として会員制のリゾート施設などという下らぬモノを建設中ですが、以前の場所からちょっと離れたところで奈良屋の子孫の方が「奈良屋カフェ」という形で、その歴史と想いを継承されています。現在宿泊棟を建築中とのこと、いつの日か泊まれる日を楽しみにしています。

Fujiya03 さて、そんなこんなで大好きな箱根への小旅行にまた行って来ました。ランチはもちろん大好きな「富士屋ホテル」のメインダイニングである「The Fujiya」です。昭和5年に建てられた木造のダイニングルームは登録文化財に指定されていて、高い天井には高山植物が描かれ、欄間には彫刻が施されていて実に趣深い空間になっています。そして窓から見える箱根の山々と明治建築の本館がノスタルジックな世界へと誘います。鍛えられたスタッフによるスマートで適度な緊張感のあるホールのサービス。こちらのフレンチは実に繊細で、かつどことなく大胆なアプローチもあり、一皿一皿を実に楽しませてくれます。それはランチでも変わらぬパフォーマンスを魅せてくれます。中でもおすすめなのが、月替わりのランチコース「レ・プリミュール」(5,000円)。こちらのコースでは地産地消をテーマにしていて、農業をこよなく愛する地元の若い農家の人たちが集まって結成された「箱根ファーマーズ」による新鮮な野菜たちをふんだんに使用しています。今月のメインディッシュは「柔らかな牛舌のデュクセル風味 プリミュールと二色のソースで(写真)」。柔らかくとろけてしまいそうな牛舌の食感と深い味わい。ムースや様々なスタイルで楽しめる新鮮な野菜たち。大変満足が出来るお値打ちコースだと思います。

Fujiya01 もちろんフレンチのコースも絶品なのですが、やはり富士屋と言えば天下無敵の「ビーフカレー(写真)」(2,400円)も食べなければなりません。天皇家御用達でもあるこちらのホテルで明治時代から受け継がれている伝統のカレーは、かの昭和天皇が幼少の砌から大好物という逸品。僕も幼少の砌から大好物、砌ってほど偉そうなものでもありませんが、いずれにしても皇族から庶民までが愛する味というのはなかなかありそうでないものです。1時間以上かけてじっくりと炒められた玉葱の甘味に、林檎や野菜の甘味、そして自家製ココナッツミルクのコクある甘味。湧き水で作った伝統のコンソメを加えて4日は寝かせるというカレーのルーは、どこまでもまろやかで香り豊か。優しいいくつもの甘さがスパイスの香りを閉じ込めてご飯を包み込みます。小麦粉でとろみがついた食感を持つ、ご飯にかけてこそ美味しい正に洋食としてのカレーです。卓上にはチャツネや薬味などが置かれ、自分好みの味にすることが出来ます。

Fujiya02 しかしどうせここまで来て食べるのであれば、ここはちょっと奮発してぜひスープ、サラダ、シャーベット、珈琲が付くコース仕立ての「カレー伝説」(4,700円)を食べていただきたいです。何しろスープには富士屋伝統の「コンソメスープ(写真)」(1,000円)がつけられるのですから。庭園の湧き水で作ったというコンソメは、どこまでも澄み切った琥珀色で味わいも洗練の極み。このレストランで何度このコンソメを頂いたか分かりませんが、いつも同じ感動を与えてくれます。このスープが伝統のカレーへのブレリュードとなり、満を持しての真打ち登場となるわけです。スープはコンソメの他に季節のスープも選ぶことが出来ますが、迷うことなくコンソメを選びましょう。ちなみにギャルソンにどちらがおすすめかを尋ねてみると、迷うことなくコンソメを進めてくれます。それほどこちらでは自信がある一皿なのです。

 ちなみに富士屋ホテルには、もっとカジュアルに使えるグリルレストラン「Wisteria」があり、そちらでも同じカレーを楽しめますが、内容も値段も変わりませんのでぜひ重厚感あるメインダイニングでご堪能頂きたいと思います。ちなみに重厚感があると言ってもきついドレスコードもありませんし、家族連れでも気軽に利用が出来ます。またサービス料と消費税は含まれていますので額面よりも安価だということになります。ちなみに「活伊勢海老カレー」(9,000円)なんて高いヤツはメインダイニングでしか食べられません。なお、ここは昼夜を問わず人気のレストランですので、事前に予約しておくことをおすすめします。予め顧客登録をしておくと宿泊や食事をインターネットで簡単に予約が出来るので便利です。

 箱根の山の中に建つ130年の伝統を持つホテルで長年受け継がれてきたビーフカレー。カレー好きならずとも必食のカレーと言える名作です。そしてその一皿をメインダイニング「The Fujiya」という素晴らしい空間で味わえる幸せ。僕にとって想い出が詰まったこの場所で食事をする時間というのは、何にも代え難い実に大切な至福の一時なのです。ぜひ皆さんも機会があればお立ち寄りください。

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Fujiyaフレンチ:The Fujiya
神奈川県足柄下郡箱根町宮ノ下359
0460-82-2291
朝食7:30〜9:30
昼食12:00〜14:00(土日祝は〜14:30)
夕食17:45〜,20:00〜(予約制)
無休

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