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Friday, 20 March 2009

中華珍々軒@上野

Chinchinkenm野から御徒町へと抜ける「アメ横」の一本裏にあるガード下で60年以上に渡り愛されている老舗ラーメン店が「珍々軒」です。ありそうでなかなかないこのストレートなネーミングに、レトロな雰囲気が漂う店が実に気持ちいいです。この店があるガード下のあたりには、もつ煮込みで有名な「大統領」や焼鳥店などが屋台のように立ち並び、まるで台湾の路地裏に紛れ込んだかのような錯覚にとらわれます。平日の昼に通りかかっても必ず一杯引っ掛けているご機嫌な人がいるのに痺れます。

 このアメヤ横丁という名前はその通り、元々飴屋が多く集まっていた横丁だったからなのですが、こちらのお店も創業当時は飴屋だったのだそうです。ラーメン店になってからも60年という長い歴史を数えます。路地に面した厨房は外から丸見えで、お店も全面開放になっていて外からすっと入って腰掛けられる気軽さがあります。路地にちょっとはみ出したテーブルに腰掛けて、買い物帰りの方やサラリーマン、多くの人たちが思い思いの楽しみ方をしているのが楽しいです。また常に人が出入りしている人気店ですが、厨房の職人さんやお店を回している女性のオペレーションが完璧なのですね。的確な指示とスピードで待たされている感がほとんどありません。

 キリッとした醤油が香る昔ながらの「ラーメン」(500円)も大変美味しく、郷愁を誘う味でお勧めなのですが、やはりこちらのお店に来たならば一番人気の「湯麺(写真)」(600円)を食べなければなりません。昨今のラーメン店のように店の側から仕掛ける「一番人気商品」ではなく、半世紀を越える長い年月の間お客さんの支持を集め続けた本当の「一番人気」の味は、まず間違いがないと僕は思うのですね。そしてもしそれが自分の口と合わないのであれば、それは自分が悪いと考えるしかないのです。だからここでは「湯麺」。何がなんでもまずは「湯麺」を食べてみましょう。

 鶏ガラベースのスープには豚足、豚皮やモミジなどが入り、見た目よりもコクがあって、さらに適度に粘度もあって物足りなさはありません。そして熱々に仕上げられたたっぷりの野菜たちは、適度にスープをまといシャキシャキ感と柔やわ感のバランスが実にいいです。麺は中太のストレート麺でコシがあってスープとの絡みも良いです。そしてこの湯麺で欠かせないのが卓上に置かれた「自家製辣油」。ある程度基本の味を楽しんだ後にこれを一回し、二回し、好みで湯麺の上からかけ回すと、スープの味に深みが増して劇的に味が変化します。

 と、偉そうに語ってはみたものの、やはりこういう場所で食べるラーメンには蘊蓄や作法など不要。何を使ってるだの麺がどうだの気にすることなく、出て来たものを自分の食べたいように食べるのが一番です。スタイリッシュでお洒落な空間でジャズをBGMに味わうラーメンもいいですが、ガード下の合間から見える青空の下、雑然とした路地裏に出されたテーブルで、頭上から聞こえる電車の音を聴きながら味わうラーメンというのもまたいいものです。

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Chinchinken■ラーメン:中華珍々軒
東京都台東区上野6-12-2
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