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Sunday, 08 February 2009

ラーメン梅乃家@富津

Umenoyam葉を代表するご当地ラーメンというか、地ラーメンとして有名なのは何と言っても「竹岡式ラーメン」ということになるでしょう。真っ黒い醤油スープに刻みタマネギ、醤油が香るチャーシューに麺は中細の縮れ麺。千葉の特に内房の人たちの嗜好にマッチして、北は市原あたりから南は南房総にいたるまで広がりを見せる竹岡式ラーメン。ちなみにこの「竹岡式ラーメン」という呼び名はあくまでもラーメンフリークやマスコミ用語に過ぎず、当の地元の方達はよく「房総ラーメン」という言い方をします。いずれにしてもこのご当地ラーメン「竹岡式」発祥のお店が竹岡漁港に創業して半世紀以上の老舗「梅乃家」です。

 よく雑誌やインターネットなど色々な場で、この「竹岡式」の定義であったりスタイルについて語られることが多いのですが、意外にも正しい竹岡式を知っている方や正しい竹岡式の情報が記されている記事は少ないのです。あくまでも竹岡式ラーメンの発祥とされる「梅乃家」を基本とした場合ではありますが、ご主人の坂口さんから伺ったお話を以前別のブログに書いたことがありますが、その記事をベースに間違いやすい竹岡式の知識をあらためてこの場で整理して再び書いてみようと思います。

 まず「竹岡式の麺は乾麺」という点について。当然麺は乾麺を使うのが基本ですが、それには理由があるのです。通常ラーメン店では、修業した技術のある方など決まった人が必ず麺上げをしています。それはその日の麺の状態などを見切って作るなど経験や技術が必要な作業だからです。しかし「梅乃家」ではパートのおばさんなど、作り手が素人であるばかりか、日によって違う人になります。そこで、どんな人でも同じように作れる麺ということで乾麺を使用することになったのだそうです。無論、麺の在庫管理がしやすいということもあると思います。

 また「乾麺でなければ竹岡式ではない」という指摘がよく見られますが、それは心情的には非常に同意出来る部分ではありますが、梅乃家でも乾麺以外に生麺を用意している事実からも決して正しいとは言い切れないと思います。そして実際に内房で同様のラーメンを出している店の大半は乾麺ではなく、生麺を使用しているのが現状です。ちなみに梅乃家で使用している乾麺は千葉市にある老舗製麺所「都一」製で、一杯のラーメンに約1玉半を使って作ります。作る時に乾麺をパキッと2つに割って合計1個半を投入するのです。また、他の店の生麺はたいていのお店が木更津にある「文明軒」というところの麺を使用しているはずです。

 またよく雑誌などでも記されている、「チャーシューの煮汁を乾麺の茹で湯で割る」というのは、実は間違いである可能性が強いです。もしかしたら昔はそうだったのかも知れませんが、少なくともここ数年梅乃家において私が見た限り、あるいは坂口さんから直接お話を聞いた限りにおいては、麺を茹でた茹で湯は捨てて、新しいお湯を丼に注ぐということになっています。理由は簡単で、茹で湯だと味がぼやけてしまうから。まっさらなお湯の方がスープが美味しくなるからだそうです。ただ醤油ダレに関しては別に作らず、チャーシューの煮汁というかチャーシューを煮た醤油を使うというのは間違いではありません。

 では「チャーシューは炭火で仕込む」という点はどうでしょう。これは似たような味を持つラーメン店で、炭火で仕込んだチャーシューを売りにしている店があったので、そのように思われている部分も多いと思います。また実際に梅乃家でもかつては大きなボールを七輪に乗せて、チャーシューを仕込んでいたそうです。しかし小さな七輪の上に大量のチャーシューの入ったボールを乗せると、非常にバランス、安定性が悪くなり、ひっくり返したり火傷したりといったことが何度かあったのだそうです。ですので、現在梅乃家のチャーシューは「ガス」で煮込まれています。しかし七輪は今でも梅乃家の厨房で活躍しています。それは麺を茹でる時に使われているのです。チャーシューは「ガス」ですが、麺茹では「炭火」が梅乃家の流儀。理由は炭火の方が麺がふっくらといい食感になるからだそうですが、本当にそうかどうかは比較したことがないので私には分かりません。

 ここまではいわゆる「梅乃家」のラーメンの話ですが、ご当地ラーメンとはフランチャイズのラーメンではないわけで、梅乃家のラーメンと全く同じである必要はないと思いますし自然伝播的に広がっていくのがご当地ラーメンであるならば、この派生形を見ていくのもまたラーメン文化の楽しい捉え方ではないかと思います。

 そうすると緩やかな基準にはなるかと思いますが、僕が個人的に考える「竹岡式」なり「房総ラーメン」と成りうる要素を列挙するとおよそ次のような感じになるでしょうか。

・醤油が立ったスープバランス
 (出来ればチャーシューの煮汁をタレに使用して欲しい)
・あまりダシの出ていない醤油色の黒いスープ
 (お湯もしくはさらっと取った軽いスープ。色は醤油の真っ黒で)
・食感、味にあまり感動しない麺
 (出来れば乾麺が望ましい。自家製麺などもっての他)
・ごろっとした大降りのチャーシュー
 (色々な調味料の味よりは醤油直球勝負の味)
・薬味は刻みタマネギ
 (刻み方はほどよい大きさで。もちろん増量可能)
・価格が安い
 (せいぜい600円程度が上限ではないかと思います)

 本家の梅乃家以外で、この系統のラーメンで人気のお店としては「富士屋ラーメン」「ラーメン天一」「四馬路」「ともちゃん」などが挙げ始めればきりがありませんが、どこもこの要素に沿ったラーメンを提供しています。それでいてどこもその店独自の味になっている。ここらへんがラーメンの面白いところです。

 さて、梅乃家に話を戻せば、久々に足を運んでみましたが相変わらずの美味しさでした。食べるのはいつも「ラーメン+やくみ(玉葱)(写真)」(650円)。無論、スープはお湯なわけですから、鶏ガラや豚骨を入れた方が食べ物として美味しくなるのは間違いなく、麺もおそらく生麺の方が美味しいのでしょうし、油も香り油などを浮かべた方が香りも良くなるのでしょう。しかし、それでは梅乃家のラーメンにはならないのですね。柔目に上げられた乾麺がスープを吸ってぐずぐずになっていくのが美味しく、醤油臭いチャーシューがまた美味しいのです。竹岡で半世紀以上に渡り愛されてきたこのラーメンを否定出来る人は誰もおらず、またそれはやってはいけないことでもあるのです。そう考えるとラーメン評論であったり、あれが美味しいこれが不味いと言っていること自体がとても不毛なことに思えたりもします。

 ノスタルジックラーメンという括りだけで見るわけではなく、ラーメンとはルールがなく各店のオリジナリティが詰まった食べ物であるという観点からも、これほどまで独創的なラーメンはありませんし、また支持を集め売れているラーメンが偉いという話で言っても、本当にここのお店はいつも行列で人気です。得てして老舗店などというと今はひっそりとというお店が多い中、梅乃家は県内でも一二を争う程の人気店。こういう力強い老舗があるというのは心強くまた嬉しいことでもあるのです。

Umenoya■ラーメン:ラーメン梅乃家
千葉県富津市竹岡401
0439-67-0920
10:00~19:00
火曜定休、月曜不定休

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