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Wednesday, 04 February 2009

横浜とんこつラーメン大黒家@木場

Dkymから10年程前、千葉で家系ラーメンを食べようと思ってもそもそも家系ラーメン店がありませんでした。だからと言って横浜まで行くのもちょっと、などという時には都内の千葉寄りにある家系ラーメンによく足を運んだものでした。その中でもよく行ったのは青物横丁の「家系ラーメンまこと家」に、葛西の「江戸川ラーメン角久」、そして木場の「横浜とんこつラーメン大黒家」の3軒でした。今となっては千葉県内にも美味しい家系ラーメン店が増えましたので、随分これらのお店はご無沙汰していたのですが、先日久し振りに大黒家の前を通りかかり寄ってみました。こちらは「壱六家」系のお店になります。

 おそらくかれこれ5〜6年は来ていないのではないかと思いますが、ちょっと古びた感じの店のたたずまいはまったく変わっておらず、一瞬にしてあの頃の自分に戻ってしまいそうです。夜の12時近くだというのにカウンター15席程のお店は常にほぼ満席状態が続きます。この人気振りも変わることがありません。注文するのはもちろん「ラーメン並(写真)」(600円)。価格も変わってないのではないでしょうか。今のご時世600円で出しているというのは立派です。家系ですので油の多さや味の濃さを聞かれますが、ここ最近はノーマルをお願いしているにも関わらず、あの頃の自分に戻ってしまっていたこの日の僕は、ついつい「油多め味濃いめ」を頼んでいました。

 久々にご対面の「ラーメン」。記憶していたよりもカエシの色が濃いめです。もちろん味濃いめで頼んでいるのですから当然なのでしょうが、それでももっと色は薄かったような気がしました。そして油の量も多めです。こちらも油多めで頼んでいるからなのでしょうが、もっと少なかったような気がします。しかしおそらくこの色も油の量も当時と変わらないのでしょうね。変わったのはきっと僕の方なのでしょう。

 醤油がキリっと立った味わいのスープは、少々雑味も感じますが豚骨の味わいがしっかりとあります。鶏油は若干甘みに欠けますので、僕のように多めにしない方がいいかも知れません。麺は壱六家系では定番の「長多屋製麺」製で、つるっとしたスープを弾くような食感を持つ麺は、酒井製麺を好む人からすればあまり好まれない麺です。僕も酒井麺で家系を知った人間ですので、正直この麺は家系としてはあまり好みではありませんが、この店の麺は昔からこの麺なのでやはり懐かしい思いの方が強いです。

 そして家系といえば、大判の海苔3枚にチャーシュー、ホウレンソウ、少量の薬味ネギ。海苔に鶏油を浸して食べると美味しいのですね。その海苔と共にご飯を食べる、という人が多いのも分かる気がします。僕も普段はラーメンライスをやらないのですが、家系に行くとついついラーメンライスを頼んでしまいます。そして壱六家系統のお楽しみといえばウズラの玉子。小さな玉子1個のことなのですが、これが嬉しかったりします。

 久々に食べた大黒家のラーメン。あの頃よりも家系のスキルが上がった自分としては、物足りない部分もなくはありませんでした。しかし何よりも原体験と言いますか、思い出の味として食べるとまったく別の美味しさがあるのですね。ラーメンというのはそういう食べ物なのだということを改めて実感した夜でした。また忘れた頃に食べに行ってみたい、そんなお店です。

Dky■ラーメン:横浜とんこつラーメン大黒家
東京都江東区東陽3-5-4
03-5632-5959
平日・祝日 11:00~翌1:00
日曜 11:00~22:00
月曜、第1日曜定休

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