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Monday, 02 February 2009

博多一風堂クイーンズイースト店@みなとみらい

Ippudobつの頃からか、一風堂と言えばラーメン屋さんになってしまいました。僕らの世代では一風堂と言えば、やはり「すみれSeptember Love」を思い出すわけで、特に一風堂のメンバーが知り合いにいたということもあって、非常に馴染みの深いバンドでもありました※。あとはその一風堂の名前の由来にもなった渋谷のディスカウントストアも実に懐かしい。僕が一風堂に良く通ったのは中学から高校時代でしたが、あの頃は今のように100円ショップもドン・キホーテもありませんでしたから、こういうお店が大変重宝しました。買うのはレコードを録音するための生カセットテープ。今あの店はどうなっているのでしょうか。※追記:8日に一風堂のドラマー藤井章司さんが急逝されました。心から哀悼の意を表します。

 そして今では一風堂と言えばラーメン屋さん「博多一風堂」が真っ先に浮かぶようになりました。関東に住むラーメン好きからすれば、かつては「新横浜ラーメン博物館」でしか味わえなかったこのお店ですが、その後恵比寿に出店。今では関東エリアで14店舗、全国に30軒以上、昨年はニューヨーク店もオープンしています。ラーメン好きではなくても「一風堂」という名前は、今やラーメン店の名前として認知されているのではないでしょうか。

 一風堂を見ていて凄いなと感じるのは、これだけハイペースな出店ペースでありながら、すべて直営でやっているということ。FCではなくすべて本社直営でやっていながら30店以上の店を出して、それでいて味も接客も均一のレベルを保っているのはなかなか出来ることではありません。それは創業者である河原成美さんの思いを店長をはじめとする社員がしっかりと共有していることが大きいと思います。僕は河原さんとも何度となくご一緒して色々な話を聞いていますが、それと同じ話であったり熱い思いのようなものを、各店の店長さんたちも自分の考えとして取り込んでいて、僕に熱く語るわけです。単純なコピーではなく、しっかりと自分のものとして捉えている。そこに一風堂という組織の強さを感じます。

 さてラー博を卒業した今、一風堂は横浜に2軒の店を構えていますが、どちらも路面店ではなくテナントとして入っています。そのうちの一軒がみなとみらいにある「博多一風堂クイーンズイースト店」です。ここは、東急が手掛ける複合施設「クイーンズスクエア横浜」の一角にあるデパート「クイーンズイースト」の地下フードコート内にあります。フードコートとはいえ、それぞれのお店は個別に仕切られていますし、通常のお店と同様にテーブルで注文を取りサーブしてくれます。お昼時や週末などは行列が出来る人気ぶりです。

 昨年メニューを一新してラーメンが新しくなった一風堂。「赤丸新味」は「赤丸かさね味」になりました。「うまみ玉」という調味料が乗っていて、これを溶かすことで味が変わっていく仕掛けは、どことなく新しいメニューの「極新味」にも通じるところがあり、実に一風堂らしいと思います。そして8月に新たに加わったユニークなサイドメニューが「博多バンズ」(250円)です。その名の通りパンというかハンバーガーのような食べ物で、これはニューヨーク店で出しているチャーシューバーガーがヒントになっているそうです。オリーブオイルを生地に練り込んだフォッカチャに、チャーシューとレタスやキュウリを挟んであり、ソースの味はテリヤキ、明太マヨネーズ、スパイシー辛味噌の3種が用意されています。この日は基本と思われるテリヤキを選んでみました。

 表面はパリッとサクッとした食感でありながら、中はもっちりしなやかなフォッカチャが非常に美味しいです。この本格的なフォッカチャはなんと自家製。ラーメン屋さんでパンというのはちょっと意外ですが、実は一風堂を手掛ける「力の源カンパニー」は、博多でブーランジェリー「DAMES de FRANCE」も経営していて、そういう部分が一風堂にも活かされているのですね。そう言えば銀座店ではランチにパンを出していると聞きましたが、そんな常識に捕われない自由な発想が形になるのが実に一風堂的で、僕は好きなのですね。

 チャーシューは肉厚のバラ肉でしっかりとソースの味が染み込んでいます。そしてフォッカチャの内側にソースが染み込んでまたこれが美味しい。さらにこのフォッカチャをラーメンのスープに浸して食べてもまた美味しいのですね。香ばしい豚骨スープが甘みのあるフォッカチャと良く合っていて驚き。ラーメンとパン、これは一風堂でしか味わえないオリジナルな組み合わせでしょう。ほとんどの一風堂で提供されているメニューだそうですので、ぜひ一度お試しいただきたいと思います。

Ippudo■ラーメン:博多一風堂クイーンズイースト店
神奈川県横浜市西区みなとみらい2-3-2クイーンズイーストB1
045-227-6305
11:00~22:00
無休(クイーンズイーストに準じる)

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