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Saturday, 24 January 2009

雅商會@北国分

Miyabim葉東葛エリア屈指のラーメン激戦区と言えば松戸市ですが、松戸で古くから閑静なベッドタウンとして知られるのが「二十世紀が丘」です。こちらはその名前からもお分かりなように「二十世紀梨」が生まれた場所で、その梨を発見し研究した、故松戸覚之助の農園があった場所です。最寄り駅は「北総鉄道」の北国分駅となりますが、実際のところはJRや新京成の松戸駅からも十分徒歩圏内の立地です。この二十世紀が丘に今月15日オープンしたのが「雅商會」というお店です。白地に黒で行書体の看板といい、「千葉本家角ふじ連雅會直系」という文字といい、會の旧字体といい、金色の家紋といい、木彫りの看板といい、どことなく非合法かつ反社会的な集団のような演出が随所に施されていますが、その店の隣にあるのが交番というのもなんとなく面白い絵面です。

 こちらのお店は新松戸にある「山勝角ふじ」というお店の3号店にあたります。この「角ふじ」というお店は元々、東池袋大勝軒出身の方が展開する「茨城大勝軒グループ」の店舗で、茨城をはじめ柏、松戸などにいくつも展開をしていますが、2008年に新松戸の店長さんがお店を買い取る形で独立し、その後流山市に新規に2号店を開店しました。「角ふじ」ブランドは極太麺にたっぷり山盛りの野菜を乗せたワイルドなラーメンで人気を呼んでいるのですが、今回の3号店はこれまでの路線とは異なり、まったく違った味を提供するお店になっています。

 その気になる味の方ですが、昼は濃厚豚骨魚介系、夜は背脂系といういわゆる「二毛作スタイル」になっています。「二毛作スタイル」とは昼と夜で異なるラーメン、メニューを提供する営業スタイルで、前述の茨城大勝軒グループにも「大黒屋本舗」や「麺屋こうじ」など昼夜でメニューが異なるお店がありますが、それらのお店とはまた違った味になっているとのこと。さらに2月以降の毎週月曜日は「バカ豚万歳の日」として、本店同様のガッツリした、いわゆる角ふじ系のラーメンを提供するそうですから、結果的に3種類のメニューが楽しめる店になるわけです。なお、こちらの店長の森川さんは某背脂ラーメンの人気店出身で、今回のお店の味作りを任されていらっしゃいます。そこらへんもまた従来の味とは違った味わいになっているポイントなのかも知れません。

 店内は厨房に面したところにカウンターが4席あり、あとはテーブル主体で、テーブルは4名用が2卓に6名用が1卓というレイアウトになっています。メニューは昼の部(濃厚豚骨魚介)が「らーめん」「みそらーめん」「もりそば」「みそもりめん」「うま辛もりめん」で、夜の部(背脂)は「ラーメン」「みそラーメン」「つけ麺」となっています。昼と夜で「らーめん」「ラーメン」と表記を変えているのはさておき、昼の部で「もりそば」と「みそもりめん」の表記が違うのが少々気になります。さらには夜になると「つけ麺」と名称がまた変わりますので、ラーメン好きではない人は一瞬戸惑うのではないかと思います。ちなみに注文は券売機で注文しますが、昼の部には夜の部のボタンがつかないようになっています。また、こちらの店は通し営業になっており、昼の部と夜の部はおおよそ夕方5時半頃に入れ替えるため30分程のインターバルが入るようです。この日は昼に伺いましたので、濃厚豚骨魚介系の味をいただきました。

 まず「らーめん(写真)」(700円)ですが、その名の通り濃厚豚骨魚介系のスープで、魚粉もスープに混ぜるだけでなく表面に浮かべてあったりして、ここ数年のトレンドのツボをしっかり押さえてある一杯という印象です。ベースのスープは濃度と粘度があり、油分もしっかりとたくわえています。そこに魚粉をはじめとする魚節系の味わいもガツンと出ています。飲みやすいと言ったら若干語弊があるかも知れませんが、口当たりも悪くなくべたつきもさほどないので比較的万人に受け入れられそうです。麺は人気製麺所「カネジン食品」の太ストレート麺で200gのボリュームがあります。つるっとしていてしっとりとした食感です。具はバラチャーシュー、メンマ、海苔、なると、ネギで、丼の半分を覆う程の大きなチャーシューが柔らかく仕上げられていました。

 また「もりそば」(750円)の方は、修業先の味でもあるいわゆる大勝軒系なのかと思いきや、ラーメン同様の濃厚豚骨魚介系でラーメンよりも魚粉の存在感が増している印象です。また味わいは酸味を押さえてあってその分甘味と辛味のバランスが強くなっていますが、個人的にはこのつけダレはかなり甘く感じ後半で若干飽きました。折角いいスープを引いているのですから、もう少しいいバランスが見つかるのではないかと思いましたが、開店して1週間のお店ですしいずれは味なども改良していくそうですので、今後に注目といったところでしょうか。なお、もりそばの麺は250gというボリュームで、大盛は100円増し、特盛は150円増しだそうです。

 激戦区松戸エリアでは決して珍しくはない濃厚豚骨魚介系ではありますが、二十世紀が丘という場所では他にはない味ですし、昼夜で異なるメニューというのも理解されれば面白い展開になりそうです。そして何よりも一杯一杯をていねいに誠実に作られているので、地元を中心にしっかりとお客さんを掴むのではないでしょうか。また店長さんをはじめとするにこやかな接客も好印象でした。次回は夜の部の背脂ラーメンをいただきたいと思います。

Miyabi■ラーメン:雅商會
千葉県松戸市二十世紀が丘柿の木町16-2
047-394-4150
11:00~24:00(17:30〜18:00頃にスープ入れ替えの為中休みあり)
無休(月曜は別メニューにて営業)

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