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Wednesday, 14 January 2009

キミツ万次郎らーめん@君津

Manjirom津市に昨年11月にオープンした新店です。君津駅からはちょっと離れた場所にあります。国道127号からだと八重原交差点を君津駅の方に向かって1キロ弱。線路を越える立体交差の手前左側にあります。よくもまぁこんな場所のお店を見つけたとお思いかも知れませんが、こちらは君津市内の数軒のラーメン店の方から教えていただいたのです。ちなみに僕に教えて下さった方は皆食べたことがないとのこと。なので店名以外の予備知識がないままに突入です。飲み屋だか食堂だかを居抜きで使っているような雰囲気のお店です。こういう雰囲気の店は原則外すことが常なのですが、こと内房エリアに関してはそうでもないことが多々ありますので、油断は禁物です。店を外観だけで判断してはいけません。

 店内は和風というか昔の食堂のような、こざっぱりとした雰囲気で外観から察した通りの感じです。4名用のテーブル席が5卓ほどに、座敷席にも4名用の卓が2卓。先客ゼロで白い調理着を着た初老の店主が新聞を読んで座っていました。これも正直想定の範囲内でした。郊外の店にありがちなやる気のないぬるい雰囲気の店。緊張感のかけらもない店。外観からはそんな風に思っていたわけですが、店内に入ってその思いは間違いないと思いました。

 しかしここからが僕の予想とは異なりました。てっきりやる気のないご主人がてれんこと立ち上がり「らっしゃーい」とだるい声を掛けてくるのかと思いきや、僕が入ったのを認めるとスッと立ち上がり「いらっしゃいませ!」と、とても元気の良い声を掛けて水を出して下さいました。やはり元気な挨拶というのは気持ちの良いものです。そして一気に期待が高まります。それだけ挨拶や声掛けというのは飲食店にとって重要な要素だということですね。

 壁にあるメニューに目をやると「ラーメン」(600円)「ラーメン(大)」(650円)「チャーシューメン」(700円)「チャーシューメン(大)」(750円)の4種類しかありません。店の雰囲気同様に非常にシンプルです。また別の場所に書かれたメニューに「梅割焼酎」(400円)という文字を見つけました。基本のラーメンを注文して暫し待ちます。厨房は半分クローズドキッチンといった状態なので、席からは中の様子を伺い知る事は出来ません。

 そしてほどなくして出て来た「ラーメン(写真)」(600円)は、これもまたある意味出て来る前から想像がついていたことではありますが、真っ黒い透明な醤油スープに縮れ麺、刻みタマネギが乗った、いわゆる「房総ラーメン」のビジュアルをしておりました。そしてその味わいもまさにそういう味でありました。中太の縮れた麺は柔い茹で加減になっており、これはもう間違いなく文明軒の麺であろうと思いますし、スープは限りなく透明で出汁感の全く感じさせないスープで、チャーシューの煮汁を使った醤油ダレが全面に出ている印象です。この基本的な麺とスープの構成要素はいいとか悪いとか、美味しいとか不味いとかではなく、これはもう房総ラーメンの基本パーツということで納得するしかないわけであります。よってここに関してコメントをすることそのものが野暮ではないかとも思うのですが、敢えて言うならばカエシのバランスが低く味が薄い、麺の茹で時間が少々長く柔らか過ぎる、という二点は指摘しても罰は当たらないのではないかと思います。

 しかし、この店のラーメンはよくよくみて見ると随分と豪華です。タマネギも「梅乃家」よりも多いですし、肉厚で柔らかく醤油臭いチャーシューもなんと5枚も乗ってきます。さらには海苔や煮玉子まで入っています。これはもしかしたらチャーシューメンの間違いか、あるいはサービスをして下さったのかとご主人に尋ねたところ、チャーシュー5枚が基本なのだそうです。ちなみにチャーシューメンは100円プラスなのですが、8枚になるのだとか。玉子は最近主流の半熟ではなく、しっかりと茹でてあって味も染みたおでんの玉子のような味玉です。これを600円で出しているというのは、それなりに頑張っていらっしゃるのではないでしょうか。立派だと思います。

 しかしながら良くも悪くも内房に広く分布する定番の房総ラーメンです。こういうタイプのラーメンならば、近隣にワンコインで味わえる店がいくらでもあります。それとの差別化もあってのチャーシューなり味玉なのかも知れませんが、既存の人気店を振り切るだけのアドバンテージには僕の中では正直成り辛かったです。また、これもラーメンの面白いところかも知れませんが、房総ラーメンなど誰が作っても同じようなものになりそうなものですが、人や店によって味わいが全く異なるのですね。ですから房総ラーメンなら何でも売れるというわけでもない。なかなか難しいところではあります。

 とは言えご主人の元気な接客と優しい笑顔、ていねいな所作は大変心地よいものがありました。ぜひいつまでもお元気で、頑張っていただきたいと感じるお店でありました。

Manjiro■ラーメン:キミツ万次郎らーめん
千葉県君津市南子安2-23-22
11:00~17:00
第3木曜定休

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