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Monday, 26 January 2009

日比谷松本楼@日比谷

Mrm_2比谷公園の杜の中にある、創業百年を越える老舗中の老舗レストランがご存知「日比谷松本楼」です。銀座での買い物を終えてぶらり日比谷公園まで散歩をしてこちらで食事を楽しんだり喫茶をしたり、というのがお決まりのコースという方も多いのではないでしょうか。かく言う僕も銀座から有楽町を抜けてお堀端までぶらぶら歩いて、こちらのお店へ寄せていただくことが多いです。創業は今から百年以上も前の1903年ということですが、この年は日比谷公園が開園している年で、松本楼は日比谷公園開園時から公園と共に歴史を重ねているのです。日本史で学んだ日露戦争後の暴動事件、いわゆる「日比谷焼打事件」の時も、こちらのバルコニーで憲政擁護の演説が行われたというのですから、百年という時のスパンの長さを感じます。

 高村光太郎や夏目漱石といった文人達も愛した歴史あるレストランは、日比谷の森に囲まれて都心とは思えないほど静かに建っています。僕の幼い頃からの意識の中には、風格のある老舗レストランというと「公園の中にひっそりと佇んでいる」というイメージが今も強く残っているのですが、そのイメージの原体験は、日比谷公園内にあるこちらの「日比谷松本楼」と、上野公園内にある創業130年の老舗「上野精養軒」の二つから来るものではないかと思います。昔からのレストランにはよくあるスタイルですが、こちらの松本楼もフロアによっていくつかのレストランに分かれています。1Fはテラス席もあり気軽に楽しめる「グリル/ガーデンテラス」。2Fは宴会場でこちらでは披露宴なども出来ます。3Fには本格的なフランス料理を堪能出来る「ボア・ド・ブローニュ」があります。TPOに応じて使い分けが出来るというのが老舗レストランの魅力でもあります。

 ランチで3,000円台、ディナーでも5,000円台からという、良心的な価格設定のコースが魅力的なフランス料理もお薦めですが、やはりレトログルメ研究家的には1Fの洋食メニューをぜひご堪能頂きたいと思います。「ハイカラビーフカレー」(760円)は松本楼の名と共に知れ渡る伝統の一品で、小麦粉のとろみが加わってもったりとしたルーがご飯と良く合う、これぞ日本のカレーといった味わいです。洋食がまだ一般的ではなかった時代、こちらのレストランでカレーライスと珈琲を楽しむのが、時代の先端であったモボやモガたちのスタイルだったようで、そこから「ハイカラ」という名前を付けたのだそうです。毎年9月に行われる「10円カレーチャリティー」のニュースなどでこちらのカレーを知った方も多いのではないでしょうか。

 そしてやはりこちらも伝統のデミソースを使った、ハンバーグやオムレツライスなども欠かすわけにはいきません。まろやかで濃厚なコクと野菜の甘さが活きた褐色のソースが、トロトロと柔らかい玉子と溶け合い至福の瞬間を演出します。個人的には半熟系の玉子が乗るオムライスは好きではないのですが、松本楼の場合は話が別。デミソースとの相性が非常に良いのはいうまでもありませんが、このトロトロ系オムライスを最初に考案したのが松本楼という説もあるようで、やはりオリジナルに敬意を表する意味でも、こちらのオムライスは別格の存在であるのです。デミソース以外にも多くのソースを選べるのも嬉しいです。

 となるとどうしてもお薦めしたくなるのが「洋食プレート(写真)」(1,575円)になります。これは自慢のオムレツライスに洋食メニューを合わせることが出来るぜいたくな一品。まずオムレツライスのソースを「ハヤシソース」「カレーソース」「きのこクリームソース」の3種類から選ぶことが出来ます。さらに一緒に乗せる洋食は「ハンバーグデミグラスソース」「海老フライタルタルソース」「カニクリームコロッケ」から選べます。優柔不断の僕としては大変悩ましいメニューではありますが、オムライスもカレーもフライもハンバーグも食べたいなどという時に非常に便利です。

 どの料理もしっかりとした味付けで、価格が安く、それでいてボリュームがある、これぞ「洋食」という料理ばかり。天気のいい時はテラスで木漏れ日の下で、あるいは室内から陽の落ちた公園を眺めながら。百年の時に思いを馳せて味わう伝統の洋食は格別の美味しさなのです。来月から改装のためお休みになるようですが、リニューアル後のお店に行くのが今から楽しみです。
 
Mr■洋食:日比谷松本楼
東京都千代田区日比谷公園1-2
03-3503-1451
10:00〜21:00(20:30LO)
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