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Saturday, 17 January 2009

スカンディア@関内

Scandiam欧という言葉を聞いて皆さんは何を連想するのでしょう。頭を垂れたかのようなスカンディナヴィア半島のシルエットであったり、スウェーデンやノルウェー、デンマークなどといった北欧諸国の国名は誰もが思い浮かべるところかと思いますが、僕の場合だとまず「ヘビーメタル」でしょうか。イングヴェイ・マルムスティーンは多くの人がご存知かと思いますが、北欧メタルという括りもあるくらい、北欧出身のヘビーメタルバンドやアーティストは数多く存在します。あとは「F1」。フィンランドは数多くのF1ドライバーを輩出していますが、フィンランド人で初めてワールドチャンピオンになったケケ・ロズベルグを始め、2度のワールドチャンピオンにも輝いたミカ・ハッキネンはフィンランド出身で僕と同い歳。2007年のチャンピオン、キミ・ライコネンもフィンランド出身です。あとはサンタクロースであったり、ムーミンであったりでしょうか。いずれにしても北欧に対してどうやら僕は深い知識は持ち合わせていないようです。

 そんな中で、食いしん坊の僕が北欧と聞いて思い出すのが、横浜大桟橋近くにある北欧料理の老舗レストラン「スカンディア」です。最寄り駅としては普通に考えると関内ということになりますが、最近では東急に直結する第3セクターの「横浜高速鉄道みなとみらい線」が通ったことから、日本大通り駅が最寄り駅ということになります。北欧料理と名乗るお店は他にもあるのでしょうが、原体験的にも僕はこのお店の佇まいを真っ先に思い出します。江戸時代、ペリーが上陸したことでも知られるこの場所。我が国の海の玄関口、大桟橋の入り口でもある開港広場前の変則的な十字路には、開港資料館や海岸教会、シルクセンターなどと共に、古き良き横浜を彷彿とさせる二つのビルが建っています。一つは80年の歴史を持つ海運会社が持つ「JAPAN EXPRESS本社ビル」。ここは1930年に竣工、敗戦後には進駐軍に接収されていた歴史のあるビルで、1Fには僕が学生時代からお気に入りのアメリカンダイナー「JACK CAFE」も入っています。

 そしてもう一つがこの「スカンディア」が入っている「横浜貿易協会ビル」です。こちらも1929年と同じく昭和初期の竣工で、やはり終戦後は進駐軍に接収された歴史を持ちます。この二つのビルが建つ開港広場前から開港記念館を抜け、県庁や税関まで続く海岸通り周辺は今でも昭和初期の面影を残す、横浜の中でも好きな場所の一つです。そしてその昭和を思わせる街並の向こうに見えるのは、現在の横浜のシンボルでもある「ランドマークタワー」。この100年近い歴史の共存が目の当たりに出来る光景は、歴史ある横浜であっても数少ない光景ではないかと思います。

 この歴史ある2つのビルが建っている一帯は、通称「象の鼻」と呼ばれる場所で、1858年にアメリカやイギリスなど列強五カ国と結んだいわゆる「安政の五カ国条約」で圧力に屈して開港を約し、その翌年に急遽作った東波止場(イギリス波止場)があった場所でもあります。本来は「神奈川湊」が開港すべき場所だったのですが、外国人がやってくることで神奈川の治安が悪くなるのを恐れた幕府が、その代替案として対岸の小さな横浜村を開港地にしたのです。この辺りを歩き当時に思いを馳せると、横浜市民ならば誰もが知っている、森鴎外が作詞した「横浜市歌」を思い出します。「昔思えば苫屋の煙 ちらりほらりと立てりし処」小学生の頃によく学校で歌わされたものですが、その時の音楽教師の教え方が良かったのでしょう、情景が感じられるいい歌詞だなと子供心にも思ったものでした。

 いずれにせよ、日本が長年の鎖国時代を経て、諸外国と再び交流を始める玄関口となったのがこのスカンディアが建っている場所なのです。今年は横浜開港150周年の記念すべき年ということもあって、現在象の鼻エリアでは記念公園を建築するなどエリア再開発が進んでいます。勿論、新しいものを作ることも大事なことではありますが、守るべきものはそれとしてしっかりと残して欲しい。そんな思いを抱きつつ、メモリアルな年に日本の国際化が始まった場所で食事をするというのも、なかなか乙なものではないかと思います。

 さて枕が随分と長くなりましたが、この「スカンディア」は、創業が1963年と横浜で半世紀近くに渡り愛され続けている、北欧料理を提供する老舗レストランです。ファンの間ではかのユーミンこと松任谷由実がよく利用していたことでも知られているレストランで、聞けばユーミンが松任谷正隆氏と結婚する時に荒井家と松任谷家が顔合わせをしたのがこのレストランだったそうです。カジュアルに楽しめる1Fの「スカンディアガーデン」と本格的なコースなどが楽しめる2Fの「レストランスカンディア」がありますが、どちらもデンマーク料理やノルウェー料理をベースにした、荒川料理長のオリジナル料理を堪能出来ます。

 スカンディアは北欧料理専門店というだけあって「スモーガスボード」が看板メニューになっています。スモーガスボードとは簡単に言えばビュッフェ料理のことで、日本のビュッフェ料理発祥でもある帝国ホテルの故犬丸徹三氏が北欧でスモーガスボードに出会ったことから、かの故村上信夫シェフに命じて日本流スモーガスボードである「バイキング」が生まれたのです。こちらのスモーガスボードは人数分の料理が大皿で来てシェアするスタイルで、日本のバイキングというよりもどちらかと言えば卓袱料理に近いものがありますが、いずれにせよお腹いっぱい料理を楽しめるという意味では変わりありません。

 もちろんスモーガスボード以外の一品料理も充実しています。海に囲まれたスカンディナヴィアだからこそ、サーモン、ニシンなどの魚介類などを使ったメニューが中心ですが、デンマークやノルウェーの家庭料理などをアレンジした小皿料理も人気です。またカレーやカツなどいわゆる洋食的なメニューがあるのも楽しいですね。ステーキやハンバーグなどのグリル系は炭火で焼き上げた香ばしいものばかりですし、ジャガイモなどをざっくりと崩して煮た付け合わせに北欧の臭いを感じます。また軽くランチを楽しむならばカジュアルな1F、ちょっとシックにディナーを堪能したければ2FとTPOに応じて使い分けが出来るのも嬉しいです。1Fのランチならば1,500円足らずで十分堪能出来ますし、ディナーのスモーガスボードで6,000円、アラカルトもおそらく10,000円程度で十分ですし、コースも6,000円〜10,000円の幅で味わえるのでリーズナブルです。

 この日は山下公園あたりからぶらっと散歩をしていてランチを食べたくなって、1Fのガーデンの方へ立ち寄りました。スカンディアのランチのスペシャリティは3種類のコロッケ風のフライが乗った「ノルウェーの家庭料理」(1,300円)ですが、「デンマーク風ハンバーグ(写真)」(1,300円)なども人気です。これらのメインにパンもしくはピラフがついて税込みで1,300円(2Fではそれにスープやアイスなどがついて1,890円)というのはなかなかのコストパフォーマンスではないでしょうか。この日はそんな「デンマーク風ハンバーグ」をチョイス。これはデンマークでは「フリカデラ」と呼ばれるもので、豚肉を使用したハンバーグのようなものです。炭火でちょっと焦げ目がついた香ばしいフリカデラの上にはフライドオニオンがたっぷり。甘味のあるソースもじゃがいもの付け合わせも、北欧ですからラタトゥイユとは言わないのでしょうが野菜の煮込みも、どことなく素朴な感じがして温かみのある味わいです。

 日本の国際化が始まった原点とも呼べる場所に佇む風格ある昭和の面影残るビルで、半世紀もの間浜っ子たちに愛され続けている北欧料理の老舗レストラン。そんな時が止まったような空間で伝統の北欧の味をご堪能あれ。

Scandia■北欧料理:スカンディア
神奈川県横浜市中区海岸通り1-1
045-201-2262
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