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Tuesday, 06 January 2009

山田@佐原

Yamadau葉県内の数ある鰻店の中でも、僕的に相当上位に入ってくるのがこちらの「山田」さんです。こちらは創業300年を誇る由緒正しき老舗中の老舗。余計な天婦羅なんぞ置いてありませんよ。鰻屋なんだから鰻があれば良いのです。他には何も求めません。

 この日は新年の仕事始めで雑誌の取材をしたのですが、長年共に取材をしている盟友、写真家の山西隆則さんから、仕事の後で香取神宮への初詣と山田で鰻という素晴らしいツアーの提案がありましたので、二つ返事で同行しました。過日こちらに来たいと書きましたが、まさかこんな早く来ることが出来るとは思いませんでした。佐原という町は「小江戸」などとも言われますが、僕は大好きな京都のような臭いがする街並が好きでよく足を運ぶ町でもあります。

 数年前に佐原の商工会の皆さんと一緒に町おこしのラーメンイベントをプロデュースしたのですが、その時に決起集会を開いて下さったのがまさにこの「山田」でした。佐原の地元にある素材を使ってラーメンを作るということで、山田の若旦那には鰻の頭を大量に提供していただき、スープの出汁に使わせていただきました。そんなわけでかつて大変お世話になったお店でもあります。カンヌ国際映画祭でパルム・ドールを受賞した、今村昌平監督による映画「うなぎ」の舞台にもなった佐原ですが、このお店で今村監督も鰻を堪能したとのことです。

 ちなみにこちらのお店では「鰻丼」「鰻重」「じか重」と三種類あり、「鰻重」を頼むと御飯と蒲焼が別に出て来て、「じか重」を頼むと所謂通常の「鰻重」となり、御飯に蒲焼が乗って来ます。この別々に出て来るというのは他でも見られますが、これはこれで佐原独自に生まれたものなのだそう。しかし個人的にはどうも鰻とご飯を分けるという上品な食べ方が性に合わないと言いますか、丼もの、重ものなのですから、ご飯の上に乗ってなければその価値が半減してしまうのではないかと思っています。鰻がご飯によって温められ、鰻のタレがご飯にうつり。別々にしてしまっては鰻がすぐ冷めてしまって美味しくないと思うのですがいかがでしょう。

 というわけで、僕がいつもここで食べるのはご飯に鰻が乗ってくる「鰻丼」か「じか重」。個人的には丼の方がいつまでも温かくて好きなのですが、お重で食べるのもまた乙なもの。この日は「上じか重(写真)」(2,200円)を堪能致しました。さすがにまだ松の内も明けていないということもあって、客足が絶えることがありません。こちらは佐原で唯一紀州備長炭を使うお店で、蒸し方も独特で300年変わらぬ製法で香ばしくていねいに焼き上げます。表面はちょっと焦げたような香ばしさがありますが、身は実にふっくらと焼き上げられています。このカリッとしてふわっとした食感が他ではまず味わえない山田の鰻の醍醐味です。

 この日は注文を受けてから30分足らずで出て来ましたが、普段はもう少し時間がかかるので、正月ということもあって多少の下ごしらえはしていたのかも知れません。こちらも成田の川豊と同じく甘めのタレが実にいいのです。そして焼き上げもしっかりとした食感が感じられて、いい意味で田舎っぽくて好きです。鰻も大きくご飯も多いので鰻も小さくご飯も少なく、仕舞には鰻とご飯は別々で、などという上品な鰻割烹なんざ、という捻くれ者の僕としては大満足のお店なのです。

 ちなみにデータ部分でリンクさせていただいているのは、僕が大好きな鰻情報サイト「うなぎ大好き」という素晴らしいサイトです。拙サイト「千葉拉麺通信」もリンクして下さっています。感謝です。

Yamada■鰻:山田
千葉県香取市佐原イ457
0478-52-4375
11:00〜15:00,17:00〜20:00
月曜定休(祝日の場合は翌休)

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